Day 12 - 26th Septemer 2009

Time to leave.


We wake at 7.30am and with a lot of shuffling of bags and bits and bobs we finally clear enough room to get to the cooker to put the kettle on. Chris potters around outside emptying the wee container (from the inside loo) and grey water etc while I finish closing bags and making sure nothing is left behind. We bid farewell to Mary and Peter - accidentally waking them - but as usual, they are nothing but nice with lots of smiles and have a happy, safe trip back home.


This little black duck who usually gets lost in her own backyard was reassuring Chris that yes - we were on the right road to the airport. We actually arrive a little early to drop the Winnebago off  then spend an anxious 20 minutes waiting for someone to appear from the hire company so we can hand over the keys. Finally we see Tina (the lady we met originally) and after a quick chat, we do the hand-over. We lug our bags to the check-in ... and it's not long to wait before we are jetting off. It's going to be a long day. We fly Hobart to Sydney - then wait 2 hours until we jet off to Adelaide - where we have another 1 and a 1/2 hours wait till we catch the connecting flight to Perth. Three plane rides in one day.. I think we will be a little tired by the time we hit home. 


We have loved every minute here in Tasmania and would do it again in a shot. Next time I think we will come in summer, hire a slightly bigger van (the van was great... just needed a bit more room) and visit all those magical places we missed this time round due to a lack of time. Goodbye Tassie. You are a beautiful state filled with beautiful people!!! We will miss you. 

                                                  Our last glimpse of Tasmania as we leave 

Day eleven - Friday September 25 2009

We wake up at 7.30am, have a bit of breakfast, shower, tidy and secure the van for driving and then it's time to head off. I'm not sure there's much to see between here and Hobart but I will know more after looking again through the maps and booklets. 


Chris and I stop for a half hour or so at this little alcove on the beach just down from where we stayed last night. Swansea council had a smart idea. For a km that we could see.. maybe more.. they have stopped the erosion of the beach by covering the sand completely with grey sandstones. It's unusual but quite nice to walk on... and a little weird to not see any sand. We traipse up and down the beach collecting seashells for the kids at home and pocketing them. Then back to the van.


We are still heading south to Hobart - and today the roads are very wet and slippery. As we go round a large bend we see a huge truck overtuned on the side of the road. It's laying exactly parallel to the road so it looks like he's slipped sideways. He seems to be well taken care of: we see several utes parked off the side of the road and some men have already stopped to help. The driver (we think it's him judging by the look on his face) is standing next to the truck shaking his head and grimacing. We figure he's ok and won't appreciate a couple of rubbernecking tourists hanging about even if it is to try help.


We stop for coffee and hot food at a little bakery in Triabunna (after a good natured grumble from Chris about how I'm a slave to either my coffee addiction or my bladder.) Triabunna is tiny but the bakery has a great selection of cakes of which we buy a few.. and the most excellent brews!


As we drive through the next town - not a five minute drive from where we just came from, we hit Orford. This is yet another lovely seaside town with some gorgeous homes - one especially catches our eye. It seems to be about 2/3 glass and is all sharp angles. We cross a bridge and there's more pretty homes - a couple of cedar ones, a lovely stone house and the road to Sorrell has a rock wall following the curve against a seriously large river complete with rapids. We continue on and see the river get even wider - it's huge! I look it up and find it's called Prosser River.


We pass through Buckland - the historic church town and as we keep travelling - Chris and I have a laugh at a sign at the side of the road.... Break-me-neck-hill. Someone has a sense of humor. 


As I am writing this, I get that feeling in your stomach when you are both excited and nervous. I think it is because tomorrow we fly home and I can't wait to the see the kids again. We have missed them terribly, especially the first few days - as several phone calls home will testify. As time went on though, the separation anxiety lessoned then pretty much disappeared. During this second week away we found out our 2nd oldest son Mason had scored a much wanted first part-time job at Dick Smith's. We are so happy and proud of him. He had the interview before we left for this trip and finally - typically - he found out he got the job  while we were here. He also had to give a big speech in front of the whole school about a camp he went on a few weeks before we also left. By all accounts his was a real hit - my darling son's sense of humor can be quite black and dry to say the least. Also our 3rd son Jake got 3rd prize in a science competition. He was stoked and we were so proud of him. Clever kid. Funny how so much happens when you leave for just a few weeks. 


Our first glimpse of Sorrell tells us that this town is quite large, especially considering some of the tiny ones we've passed through in the state. It looks like it might have some great shopping, too. Visibility though is a little difficult - can't quite get the full picture as its pelting down now. We go over a long bridge over Pittwater and the gusts are blowing the van alarmingly. It amazes me. You come off the bridge and the roads, and travel through huge walls of greenery again. Within minutes we spot the Hobart airport and we are trying to find the Barilla Caravan park where we plan on staying overnight. We just have to find Richmond Road on the B31.


We book into the Barilla Caravan Park and, oh dear... I find it's the same park we very first looked at when we arrived and decided against. My fault there. For some reason I went - oh, let's not stay here - and we went to Snug instead. Perhaps I was overtired from the flight, who knows. That said Snug was a great little place for our first night in Tassie.


2.45pm and we've washed the outside of the van and almost packed. A load of washing is drying and now it's time to go re-fill the gas bottle and the petrol tank for the next person who hires the motorhome. The van is due to be handed back over at the Hobart airport by 10am tomorrow. 


I'm sitting here on the steps of the van writing this - looking over green sloping hills dotted with homes and trees. The sky is threatening rain but it's not really cold. A pair of sweat pants and t-shirt do just fine. I wonder if I can talk Chris into a game of putt-putt they have here at the park. There's also an indoor pool (heated) that looks rather inviting but alas... neither of us brought our bathers. 


Earlier while I was wandering around the park  (and Chris was busy doing something else) I met a wonderful lady called Mary. She is Irish and I could listen to her speak for hours - she has that certain Irish lilt to her voice. She's popped in to see me again and this time stayed for a little and we chat then she extends an invitation to us. Come over for coffee. She and her partner Peter have lived on-site at the caravan park for around 5 years and are very happy here. She's possibly one of the few people I've met that can match me in the chatterbox stakes. 


Chris I head out for a bit to do the gas and petrol thing and end up looking through some shops before we go back to the park. We relax for a bit then order a woodfired pizza from the park reception (nice set up there.. you can buy a beer or wine and/or food... pizza, icecream etc..) We choose a small salmon, brie, onion and caper one and it's bloody delicious!


We finally see Mary has come back after a few errands and toddle over to say hi. Instead of the promised coffee she and her partner Peter ply us with drinks. It's the first Kalhua and milk I've had in... well, I don't remember when to be honest. They go down a treat. We sit in this old bus her and Peter have made as their home. It has all the mod-cons, somewhere to sit, a toilet, shower and wash machine and a bedroom at back. It's quite nice. Very homy with lots of candles burning away giving it a soft, mellow glow. We did feel a bit bad - we caught them mid-way through cooking dinner. Mary isn't fazed though. "Oh, the chips will be a while cooking, and when they're done, the microwave will do the rest," she says with an airy wave of her hand. "Sit.. sit." 


They really are one of the nicest couples you could meet. We sit for quite a while, chatting and drinking and when it's time to leave, she makes us promise to say goodbye in the morning. Hugs all round and we leave for our own van. Sometimes you meet someone who is natural, funny, self-depreciating and they are just the best kind on the planet. This is Mary all over. Peter is a sweet man too, just a little quieter.  Thanks Mary and Pete.. we had the best time tonight. It was fun!

Day ten - 24th September 2009

We leave the Hillcrest Caravan Park by 10am. We plan on winding our way down the coast over today and tomorrow to reach Hobart maybe by mid-afternoon. We need to clean the van, do washing and be prepped for Saturday.


We stop at a little bakery in St Helens and score some toasted sandwiches and something to drink for breakfast and then we are off for a drive through the town and to Binalong Bay - more commonly known as The Bay of Fires. It's a wild and wooly seas that greet us. The water is rough and throwing up massive waves on the boulders. I suppose if you don't have beaches or a river where you live it might be something awe inspiring but Chris and I were like.. Is this it? Perhaps if the day had been sunny and calm, it might have given us another perspective on it. Actually, I'm sure of it.

                                                                Binalong Bay 
We have a little trouble figuring out how to get out of St Helens. We go one way - nope - this is the way back to the caravan park... so we do an about face and drive some more - but now we are heading back out to the cheese factory, the way we came in. Hmm. We need to keep a close eye out for signs to Scamander. I really like St Helens... feel quite at home here actually. Beautiful green pastures as you come into the town, then a (bare, at least for now) tree lined street, zip around the corner of Tully Street, and voila! The town is before you. There's no shortage of accomodation here either - a couple of caravan parks, plenty of hotel/motels and B&B's. The water (a sweet little harbour) is on your left. 


Another thing I've noticed about Tassie is the great signage. You'd be hard pressed to get lost if you already have a destination in mind. That said, for the first time we are a bit stumped. St Helens is a little tricker as the signs are far and few between  but it could be we are not looking hard enough either. We eventually find our way out - Scamander 13kms. Whew. 


We hit Beaumaris on the way to Scamander, and find a little town full of seaside cottages in lots of different colours. There's your blues and yellows, creams and  greens, too. No shops that we can see though. I think we might have missed the town centre. We are hugging the coast - just a straight run through. Coming over the hill 10 minutes after leaving St Helens we see Scamander. 


A big lake on our right, norfolks mixed with scrubby bush and as you drive through the town, the mountains again loom in the backround. It's a beautiful coastline for sure. Scamander is a lovely little town. Falmouth is next - blink and you miss it. The bush just out of Falmouth seems to be recoving from a bush fire. The bush and trees are still showing signs of black and it's a little bare. It seems strange seeing it after the scenery we've just passed by. Brilliant green to scrubby and blackened. A bit sad for all the creatures that probably died. 


Four Mile Creek and Ironhouse pass by and we end up in Bicheno. There's a place around Bicheno - Natureworld - that I really would like to go to. 


We stop in at Natureworld - pay $18.50 each and wander through looking at the animals there. It's not bad, though pretty much like any other nature place you might visit. There are snakes, birds, wombats (hiding in his burrow - too cold for even them!) and kangaroos, but the bit I like most is seeing the Tassie Devils. This is an animal I've never seen before... they are very cute and there are a couple of babies, too. They are about the same size as the little stuffed toys you see everywhere here for sale. Just adorable!! 

                                                              Sign says it all 

                                                  The cute little Tasmanian Devil


Still heading down the coast we are going for a look at Coles Bay. Here we find   Freycinet or Wineglass Bay. For about a half a km or more on both sides of the road there is a sea of yellow (I think they are Arcacia bushes.. but don't quote me on that.) Its a bit hard to take a good picture of them hurtling down the highway at 100kms an hour. 

We find the turnoff to Coles Bay - 28kms - excellent. We will be there in no time. I'm hoping this isn't going to be the same as Binalong - seen one, you've seen them all. It's a great sealed road we travel... in better condition than most other turn-off's we've ventured down. We go around the usual twists and turns and suddenly up ahead are some incredible rocky mountains. Almost devoid of vegetation, they rise up behind the bay like craggy outcrops of splendour. We check the information bay placed at the beginning of a road that sport a bunch of homes and decide to see what's ahead of us. 


There's probably an entry fee to the National Park so Chris goes in to see what's the score with that - how much and how long do we have to trek to get to see anything. Though it's not raining, it sure is cool overhead... jacket time again. Chris and I were discussing this, this very morning. You come to Tasmania during summer and you'll get perfect weather but you'd have to fight the crowds every way. Come in Spring (booking before a certain date in September and before the high season) and you take your chances with the ever changing weather. Suns out, then it goes as quickly as it comes. Then the wind picks up and boy, its an icy wind. 


Well, information tells us its a 22 dollar entry fee to the National Park. No biggie. But what is now holding us up is time. It's a forty minute walk up to the lookout and then another 40 back and we have to be in Triabunna by at least 5 or 6pm to find a spot to stay the night and we still have an hour or two of driving to get there. We decide instead to try and get a closer look at the Bay by driving back the way we came in. We remember seeing a few picture opportunities on the drive here to the info centre. 


We find a little side street that gives us a great view of the water and mountains. We stop for a drink and Chris buys me this pretty little silver and blue braclet in a shop nearby (it has butterflies on it.. too cute!) I'm so busy talking to him and concentrating on getting the clasp done on it, that I miss a step and stack it, landing on my knees and ripping my jeans. Oops! I have a lovely graze now. There's a memory for you. 

                                                                      The Bay                                               
Next stop - Swanswea. We have changed our mind. Triabunna is maybe too ambitious with the time left so we decide to stay there instead. It's pretty much the half-way point between St Helens and Hobart. 


We find a lovely little caravan park on the beach - the suns been shining weakly through the clouds so we book in and get our spot then drive off into town to go to the jetty and grab some rays. We take a walk - its just a lovely sea view and I like the here. The jetty has several places to walk down - one espcially good for kids to jump into the water from. Not too high at all. 

                                                        One of the jetty's at Swansea

                                     These were on the beach - I love purple flowers
We then go in search of dinner. We find a little seafood place on the corner but I'm put off by the strong fishy smell and cramped dining. I instead persuade Chris to try the pub down the road. I'm happy now and he's not. He doesnt much like pubs to eat in and I think he was looking forward to some nice seafood. He eventually warms to the idea though. Theres a nice spacious dining room with an open fire and the warmth is heaven. The meals are really nice.. especially with a nice merlot for me and a beer for him. 


Back by 7pm to settle in for the night. It's gone cold again and is blowing a gale. Thank God for the little heater that comes with the van.


The surf is so loud just beyond the fence it sounds like thunder every time it crashes on the rocks. This is the sound we fall asleep to. 

Day nine - 23rd September

We wake up about 8am. It's the nicest day today - not too cold - which is a relief after yesterday. I head for the showers and I'm going to mention these because I am impressed. These showers are lovely. Clean, a good size, and best of all... they have a separate screen door which you can shut off so your clothes don't soaked. Only downside is there are not enough showers to go around. Only only one per block. Lucky we aren't staying there in the high season. 


We hear from Number one son who is currently in the U.K on holidays. He wants us to call him but we can't get through to him. Numerous frustrating tries later we give up - and I sms him back to tell him we will try to get to a landline ASAP. Turns out it's nothing urgent... he's just in the mood to talk to mum and dad, (missing us as much as we are missing him I think.) 


Leaving Latrobe we travel to Launceston - passing by the turnoff to Deloraine - where we see some of the most picturesque postcard scenery - rolling green hills with trees of every shade green as they sit perched over large lakes. The homes here are  beautiful...  built in a log cabin style and cedar. So very pretty!! 

                                                     On the way to Launceston


We wind our way through Launceston and stop for a while at a fishing and boating store in the Tamar Valley. Chris has an explore. So far the rain is holding off but it could go either way. It's still not terribly cold though (I cannot believe how fast the weather changes here - really keeps you on your toes) and I'm actually wearing short sleeves for the first time during this whole trip. Earlier Chris had spotted a Hungry Jacks (a burger place here in Australia) and is salivating at the thought of some for lunch. 

                                                         Driving into Launceston


Launceston is quite a lovely city. Right now I have one thing on my mind. Coffee. I'm gasping for it. We get my drink and a free donut from a service station and decide to pass straight through. Launceston strikes me - again - of being like Fremantle. It has an old world feel. This time.. unlike when we hit Hobart ... we drive easily though the city streets to find our way to the Tasman Highway. This will take us straight through to St Helens. With only a few days left we plan on making our way down the East Coast, gradually winding our way back to Hobart to be ready for Saturday which is the day we fly back to Perth. 


We are on the way to Scottsdale - the route to get to St Helens - and stop at Sidelings Lookout. WOW WOW! It's just incredible. The views blow us away. 

   

                                These three shots are from the Sidelings Lookout


We are back to windy roads again after a fairly long straight run. There are some terribly bendy curves with 200-400 foot drops straight down - and no railing to help stop you if you veer off the road for some awful reason. One thing I must mention here is the roadkill. I briefly touched on it before but seriously, I have never seen so many dead animals squashed on the side (or the middle) of the road in my life. They're everywhere. Possums, wombats, a Tassie devil or two and the odd unidentifiable creature. Poor little things. But even the most careful driver can get caught. So far - knock on wood - we have left all furry creatures still kicking and able to sleep another night. 

                                 Somewhere on the way to Springfield or Scottsdale


We pass though Springfield and reach Scottsdale in minutes. This is a gorgeous little town. We make a stop in at the Forest Eco Centre for a look around and buy some souvenirs. By 2pm the rain starts again - sigh.

                                                                   The Eco Centre 
We take a three km turn off to Ledgerwood to see some life size chainsaw wood carvings. That depict war scenes as a commemorative to fallen soliders during ww1. Very touching and beautifully done. These have to be seen to be believed. They are huge and intricate and just amazing. 

                                            Some of the carvings - WW1 depictions


Then we move through Ringarooma and move through to the next town which is Branxholm. Not much to see here. Derby is next - an old-fashioned historic town with a river running along side it. There are more winding roads to negotiate as we wend our way to Weldborough. Here we are driving through the mountains and on our left are very steep drops. They make me a little faint. On the right is a wall of trees that are maybe 10 times higher than our camper. We are 373 metres above sea level here, apparently. We drive past huge forests and manferns. Weldborough is tiny - a little pub/accommodation and a few homes, that's it. 


We are now driving through Myrtle Forest. For the next 30 kms we are driving through rainforest and down even more horrendouly scary roads. Forget trees 10 x times higher here - these are easily 20 or more. Its also raining heavily. I'm starving but we are yet to pass a decent shop where you can buy food. Supplies are low too: we have my favorite dip, some crackers, butter, jam, eggs, a loaf of bread and maybe half a bag of lollies. We had to give away our salami and an unopened packet of bacon to Nola (for the dogs) because when we parked out front of her house back in Strahan we forgot to recharge the batteries in the van. So the fridge was off.... a real doh moment! 


One thing we've had no luck with is seeing the waterfalls. Mentioned that before I know. We missed the first due to rain, Cradle Mountain was a wash out, we accidentally passed Ralph Falls back in Rangarooma and didn't feel like going back. Then the lady behind the counter at the Eco Centre told us the police had messaged them and no-one was to go to St Columba falls as it was currently blocked off. A little disappointing. But such is life. 


There is another a few towns away - Halls Falls - but it's an hours walk and in this rain - well, I'm wussing out. I'd like to at least visit the Pyengana Cheese Factory - if Chris doesn't accidentally on purpose drive right by. It's not too far off now. 


Ok. I win. After a few words at the turn off, we head into the Holy Cow Cafe and Cheese Factory. I'm glad we do. It's a sweet little place with a warm atmosphere and has a roaring fire going. Chris orders the soup of the day - pea and cheese with beer bread. This is really nice actually and I love it which is kind of strange because I'm not  someone who usually likes soup. I have cheddar on toast with relish and this is really good, too. The banana milkshakes we order with our food is delicious - and ice cold. It's nice to have afternoon tea overlooking lovely views. The cheese tasting was a fun thing to do. 

                                         The view out back of the Cheese Factory
        
Only 20 minutes to St Helens from here. Driving through St Helens (we will go back for a long look maybe tomorrow - it's getting late now) it seems a modern, vibrant place. Very pretty. We want to find a park to stay the night and we head over a small bridge to Fairlea where we find one from the map. I've just realised something really awful and am bitterly disappointed. We forgot to go to Grindlewald Swiss Village, a little place just out of Launceston. Much grinding of teeth!!!!! I cannot believe I forgot it after reminding myself - and Chris - like a hundred times on this trip to this point. 

                                                          St Helens waterfront

    

 I thought this was a houseboat turned into a restaurant... not sure  now though

                                                       St Helens - Main Street 


We book into the Hillcrest Tourist Park and Mini-Market. It's four kms out of St Helens and just across from the water. It has hot takeway food and we can re-stock the fridge and cupboard a little for the remaining few days of our trip.
We bum around for a bit in the caravan park, finally taking a walk along the water and now it's dark. Takeaway shop here we come! I feel like something hot to eat.


Footnote: Food here is great. Chris ordered a seafood basket and I have a piece of fish and some chips. All hot, non-greasy and really delicious. Chris was impressed with the amount of seafood he got for just eight bucks. Nice end to the evening. Full tummies and a nice warm bed. 


Night from me. 

Day Eight - 22nd September 2009

Today it has NOT stopped raining. It makes it difficult to do anything other than drive through town and look at it through the car window. Where is spring?


We say goodbye to Nola and Rick at about 9am and after filling up the tank ($1.38 a litre.. I ask you!) we head off up to Cradle Mountain. What a wash out! It is raining so hard and is so miserably cold, we instead forgo the hoped walk and decide to lunch at the Cradle Mountain Château. The food when it comes is just beautiful and we get really large portions though we did have a long wait - 25 minutes before our entrées even reached us.. and it wasn't very busy either. 

       
We leave Cradle Mountain and wind our way up to Sheffield. I want to see 'The Town Of Murals.' I have to say though and I don't say this lightly... I have never felt this cold and miserable. It's freezing!!!! The wind feels like it's blowing straight off a massive chunk of ice and even our clothes and the windows of the car feel like they could shatter if you touched them. The incessant rain has stopped us from walking or even taking any photos so we visit the supermarket and decide to just buzz off to Latrobe instead. What a bummer. 


Latrobe is a funky little town. Quite modern mixed with older shops. We find a caravan park to stay the night - Latrobe Mersey River Caravan Park - and then head a few streets away for coffee and warmth at the Axemans Hall of Fame. We wander through the platypus display (sadly no platypus - unless you count the stuffed one.) There were fish though in the water tanks though. Quite strange. 

We looked around the Axemen of the Past display - stopping to watch old footage of these men in woodchopping competitions. We head out under cover for a bit to drink our hot drinks and get talking to a Mr Wayne R Appleby, a lovely gent who has been the country music scene for over 50 years. He's toured with some great names -  Jean Stafford, Slim Whitman, Charley Pride - and has worked with Wayne Horsburgh, Smoky Dawson, Chad Morgan and Ann Kirkpatrick. He also knew Keith Urban as a child in Nashville and can't believe how big he is now in all over the world. I think he is spun out a little he's now a grown man married to Hollywood royalty and is a dad. Wayne's wife - Jean Stafford - is a Tasmanian who is currently touring the U.S. and is big in the country music scene - especially over there. Wayne gave us his card to look his wife's site. I will do that when I have internet access again. Thanks Wayne.. it was lovely meeting you and was a highlight of the day.


We book into the caravan park and find it's not our day. We are plugged in to the power but there's no electricity coming through. We have lights but no heat. Big eek! We then try to call the hire company and the credit runs out on Chris's phone halfway through the conversation. It's bang on 5pm and we know the workers will be heading home because the work day is almost finished if not already. 


A bit of mucking around later, we finally have a working phone and now heat also. It was as simple as changing plugs outside. And here we were checking every damn thing in the van thinking the switch  had maybe gone. 


It's 5.45 now - so we will try to get some T.V. reception and just kick back for the evening. Nothing else to do. Tomorrow we head to Launceston. 

Day seven - 21st September 2009

I wake up before the set alam of 7am. It's a quarter to and light outside. Nola has already left for work but I catch Rick before he heads out for the day.


We set the alarm for an early(ish) wake up. Well, early when you're on holiday.  Last night over dinner Nola mentioned there is a fantastic day of cruising down the Gordon River if we were looking for something to do while in Strahan. She told us everything about it - and we are more than eager to try it. 


We shower, dress and then eat a light breakfast Nola had kindly set out the night before. Then we wait for one of Rick and Nola's friends, Cliff to kindly pick us up. Nola had pre-arranged this also. What a gem. 


We get to the dock - and buy a premium ticket for $110 each which allows us to sit on the 2nd tier deck - on the window side with only two seats. No sharing. Lunch is included.

                                              Just a little part of Strahan


The cruiser is magnificent - huge and luxurious. We settle in our seats ready for a day, all six hours of it, cruising down the river. The first part of the journey sees us leave Strahan riding the tide through a narrow opening onto the open seas aptly named 'Hell's Gate. We don't venture too far out onto the seas - it's rather choppy - so doing an about face we head back down past Liberty Point where after approximately 2 hours we hit Sarah Island. We dock here to explore one of the oldest convict settlements in Australia and relive the absorbing tale of how inmates turned a hell on earth into one of the largest ship building yards in Australia. 

The cruiser 

Hells Gate - where the river meets the sea

Our tour guide for this leg of the stop is a scream. Hailing from Chile, he 
regales us with tales dramatising each point of interest on the island from the convict cells to the Goveners' quarters to the old, now broken down ovens they used for cooking damper. His accent and crazy jokes really make us 
smile. 


                                                                         Sarah Island

                                                       View from Sarah Island 
We finish at Sarah Island and start the trek further down the river. Lunch is served - a nice selection of cold meats and salads, Tasmanian double-cream brie, smoked salmon, crackers and bread plus lots of other things. Chris and I buy a bottle of Tassie merlot to drink with lunch. Okay, this is heaven.                                                            

                                                     A sea of trout farms

                                       Bringing the trout in readiness for the table
                                     

                            This is what we see coming back down the Gordon River


By 1pm, the sun is out enough for people to shed their coats and scarves and we all move freely around the three decks . The scenery is quite breathtaking with deep forests and craggy mountains and in a quieter moment, we take in a video playing - a documentary on the 'piners' - those men responsible for bringing down the huon pine trees for a living. 


We dock back home at around 3pm, relaxed and after a wonderful day out. 


After a look around the 'Old Saw Mill' we buy some offcuts of huon pine for sale. They are ready-made in coaster, potholder and cutting board sizes, just needing to be oiled and used. A real talking point. They are so different. I get some for Nola too as a thank you, then wonder if it's like taking someone to the beach when they live on the foreshore. Apparently not. They're a hit. Nola mentions she hasn't got anything like them.. and just loves wood things. I'm happy about that at least. 


After Nola collects us from the dock we head back to her house and get changed for a walk on the beach. Her dogs are restless and ready for a walk. We all are actually. Harry and Scarlett are the best two dogs in the world. Just sweethearts. We head down to Ocean beach. It's an unusual beach - the sand is wet and makes sucking noises as we walk and it stretches for around 37 km's. Long by anyones standards. There's foam under our feet and fresh water creeks running down from the sand dunes to meet with the salt water of the ocean. The dogs take advantage, stopping every so often to take a drink. 


We walk for about a km then turn around and walk the other km back. We are all happy yet pooped after. 


Back home we have a few drinks and Nola sorts dinner - the most delicious foccacias I've ever had. 


We hang around talking and then settle and watch some T.V. Chris and Rick are more like old friends who have been apart for a while and Nola and I much the same. It just feels so comfortable. 


Tomorrow we bid a sad farewell to a wonderful couple that opened their home to us, fed us, let us sleep in the most amazingly, comfortable bed and well, to be honest, were just fantastic all round. Thank you, guys. We look forward to seeing you again in the future!!


We are off to see Cradle Mountain tomorrow and then are staying in Launceston - the 2nd largest city in Tasmania. 


What a brilliant day. 

Day Six - 20th September 2009

I'm eager to get on the road again. We pack up and are ready to leave by 9ish. It's overcast and quite cool. First stop leaving New Norfolk is Salmon Pond. Oops, I just realised I've been calling it The Salmon Farm. 


Salmon Pond is about a 10 minute drive out of Norfolk, situated in the Derwent Valley in a little place called Plenty. It is on route to Mt Field National Park, but I don't think we will be going as far as that. 

                                                            Gardens at Salmon Ponds 

We have a good look around the lovely English style gardens and stop for pancakes for breakfast in the restaurant on site after we've done a tour through the Museum of Trout Fishing and Tasmanian Angling Hall of Fame. It's quite an interesting look actually. There is a lot of information about the historic trout hatchery and the hatchery production. 


We keep driving west. I really want to see a waterfall and Russell Falls is on the way. There are so many here in Tasmania but so far we are not having any luck. Looks like this one is a wash out, also. We take the turn off and drive for a few km's but when we get there.. well, the weather is a pain in the butt again. After waiting for the rain to slow down for about 10 minutes I get grumpy and tell Chris to just leave it. It's quite a walk to actually see the falls and the last thing both of us want is to get soaking wet. Maybe we will have better luck with the next one.               


We then drive for about an hour and a half to a place called 'The Wall.' This place is ideally situated at the halfway point on the journey between Hobart and Strahan. What can I say about 'The Wall?' Well first up, there's no cameras allowed inside. Fair enough. 


Artist Greg Duncan is creating life-size sculptures out of wood. 'The Wall in The Wilderness' is his commemoration of those who helped shape the past and present of the Central Highlands of Tasmania. It's a work in progress. 'The Wall' is carved from three metre high panels of timber, most of which are of the rare Huon Pine. The carvings themselves are just fantastic. They look so real and the men he carves have veins standing out on their arms and folds in their clothes and you feel like maybe they could be made out of butter - not wood. If you were to touch one (which is actually NOT allowed) you might think they would be like satin under your fingertips. 

                 Outside the entrance to 'The Wall' - no cameras allowed inside.


Next stop is Strahan. The drive is hairy at times. Very steep mountains and thick foliage everywhere. Rainforest with manferns turn into scrub-like bushes which then turns into a wall of massive trees.  Driving through Queenstown is an almost surreal feeling after the scenery we've just passed through. The hills here are bare. And grey. And just plain strange. And it's bloody freezing. I mean that nasty, biting cold that seems to get in your bones. 

                                         This group of pics are all of Queenstown

                                          Look at those scary drops off the edge

We carry on towards Strahan. In an earlier phone call with Nola, she had mentioned we would have to do the 99 bends on the way to get to her. Turns out she was right. The roads are narrow at times and Fagio (Chris) is slowed down frequently as yet another turn then another, then another looms ahead. Here's the thing we find out very quickly. If you think you have say an hours drive ahead of you, working on the kilometres you have to drive and the speed you are going, add another half hour or more on. The roads here in Tassie never seem to run straight...ever! They bend, they twirl, they drive (haha) you half mad with the way they slows you down. Which I guess is both a good and bad thing. At least you can't speed. 


We finally pull into Strahan, where I make a quick phone call to Nola. She gives us directions and says she will be waiting out the front of her house. We can't miss her. She's doing star jumps by the side of the road, her face beaming. I race out of the car to greet her - this is very exciting. And then... it starts raining. We all race inside her house to the warmth where Rick, her husband, is inside waiting to greet us. A lovelier couple you will not find and we feel at home instantly. Nola has cooked a lovely roast chicken dinner with vegetables and gravy and ..... well, after eating on the road for the past days, it is a great meal. She had jokingly sent me an sms earlier. Hession bags are on the bed waiting for you and roadkill is cooking. Hope you're hungry. Ahhh, that Tassie sense of humour. I did have a good look though as she got the chicken out of the slow cooker. You never really know. You see a lot of roadkill in Tasmania!